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Topic: Good boat rod for tuna etc.< Next Oldest | Next Newest >
Nanuk Offline
Cuda




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Posted: Aug. 06 2007,02:23

Right, after a disaster with my brand new Shakespeare Salt Travel rod in 20-30lb class (it broke while we were setting the drag, it was only at 10lbs and the rod wasn't even in a full curve - only the tip had started to bend and then it just went bang. I have never broken a rod before - i still have my very first cheapy that I started with at age 4 (and it still gets used occassionally!)
Ok the requirement:
Long boat rod, preferably travel version (definitely NOT a 1- piece) Something in the 8' range.
20-30 lb class - unless there is something with enough backbone to deal with 175lb yellowfin tuna, porbeagle sharks to 500lbs, skate to 200lbs that I don't of.

I don't want cheap. I have never minded paying top dollar if it is for extra quality, not just a name. I am matching a Penn Interntional Torque 300 to this rod.

(By the way, the info for the reel says 360 yards of 30lb mono - that is rubbish. nearly the entire 535 yards of Penn Dynabraid 30lb mono has gone on and still left 1/8th of an inch to the reel spool, about 480 - 500 yards I would think. I haven't run off the rest of the spool to see - but will just out of interest, but I am down to the last two layers of spool with the plastic showing through.)

Anyone got any ideas for a class boat rod that would fit this bill? All suggestions gratefully received.
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critterdog Offline
Marlin




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Posted: Aug. 06 2007,13:40

I don't recommend a two piese for a fish that heavy. You loose alot of backbone at the connection.  Sometimes if you have just a little nick in the fiber it can snap.

 I build my own rods, and if you don't find the splign or are off of the splign just a little it will snap. 100% graghite rods can snap if you bend it to the side.

The eyes of alot of mass produced rods are not placed properly on the splign,which is the backbone of a rod. If you put the but of a rod on the ground and hold the tip, bend it a little and roll it. You will see the rod stiffen up and then bend easy ,the stiff part is the splign. Bait caster eyes have to be on top of it and spinning rods have to be under. It is a little harder to see when the eyes are already on the rod. That is why a good custom built rod by a well known builder will useually last for years
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Nanuk Offline
Cuda




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Posted: Aug. 06 2007,15:10

Excellent knowledge to pass on Critterdog - thank you.

What would you recommend for an "off the shelf" rod - but it has to break down I'm afraid. One piece rods and enough length for the kayak don't go together for transport and storage - even if they are better for fishing with and are stronger. I take those points on board.

A compromise has to be arrived at - a well built, decent rod of 2 or more sections, about 7' 9" - 8' 4" (otherwise I will be knackered by the leverage...) but I need the length in case the fish goes under the kayak.....enough length to pass the line around the bow, even when in a bit of a bend - because to pass it round I will be backing the drag off!

Shakespeare are sending me a new top section (that sounds good - but the manufacturing tolerance can't be that accurate and how can this tip match the rest of the rod with regard to action???) I am not convinced, so am still looking for a good rod to match to the Torque which will handle heavy fish. I have lihter stuff - the Greys longboat for a 15-20 is very good and the Snowbee Deep Blue IGFA 8lb class is my favourite, but i doubt I can subdue a hard fighting Porbeagle with it - not realistically and humanely anyway - the fish would have to be on its last legs and I don't want to kill such a magnificent fish. So the jury is still out - because despite your excellent advice, still no recommendations. .....and the charter boat for mothership is booked for 3 September! So I have to move fast.
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Capn Jimbo Offline
The Godfisher




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Posted: Aug. 08 2007,14:46

This is a tough one.  Short of having a custom rod made (and there are some dandies here in South Florida), it's very hard to find a two-piece in your length range.

Shimano makes a 9 footer, the CSC-90H-2 - a heavy duty two-piece rated for 10-30 lb test for a very reasonable $79.99 USD.  What I'd do is cut off about 6 or 8 inches and mount a new tip-top.  This might also make it even a bit stiffer...

Now if you'd consider carrying your rod (sans reel) topside with the Penn stowed below, you could then use a 1-piece and there are plenty of those in your length/duty range...


:capn:


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Tight lines,
Capn Jimbo

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critterdog Offline
Marlin




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Posted: Aug. 08 2007,18:29

Herrington may not be the rite spelling, I think this is the best blank for big fish ,surf rods, for shark ,not sure someone may baught Co.
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Nanuk Offline
Cuda




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Posted: Aug. 09 2007,09:19

Guess what - 3 of these rods (20-30lb Salt) have ALL broken in exactly the same place.......design fault me thinks. Certainly I would give up after 3 breakages!

I have been toying with the idea of a Shimano Beastmaster 20-30 - ll roller guides too, but it is a 1-piece and I don't know how much the airlines will like that - price over here is the equivalent of $190, so pretty cheap really.
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amhirsc0 Offline
Cuda




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Posted: Aug. 09 2007,17:14

Over the years I have purchased more rods than I would like to admit, and have built several more.  My quess is the rod failed because fast action (translate - tip skinny) pure graphite rods sell best.  The problem is that pure graphite, while light with a high modulus, which allows fast and quick casting, is brittle and subject sudden breakage if stressed too far or if there is a defect or a scratch on the tip area of the blank.

Because low weight is not a concern, you may want to check for a glass or a composite rod that has a moderate action rather than a fast action.  A glass or composite rod has more backbone and is less prone to breakage. I've used Lamiglas over the years and find their blanks to be excellent.  Finally, if you want to catch a +100 fish as powerful as a tuna from a kayak (I've caught a 100 pounder from a big boat) you better set the drag at a low setting or else he'll drag you into his realm if he gets abeam of the kayak.

Finally, if you really want a 2-piece rod, look at the possiblity of a salmon rod. The rods are geneally two piece with a medium action.  King salmon get up to 85 plus pounds and use the current of a river to fight.

I would call a rod manufacturer and talk to someone who probably could make a recommendation.  Try Lamiglas - they been selling blanks for years.


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KayakAl
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Nanuk Offline
Cuda




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Posted: Aug. 12 2007,09:48

All good advice and points raised - trouble over here is the restricted amount of stuff to go at. Cheap and nasty most of it - BUT, hope springs eternal and those nice people at Shimano have suggested ne of their SPEEDMASTER boat rods in 20-30 (I hope Speedmaster doesn't mean it breaks faster :D ) so I am going to go and have a look - on their website it looks as though it would do.

There will be better rods out there - but geting hold of one is the problem. Limited market over here - I bet there wouldn't be 500 rods in thsi calibre sold in a year throughout the country - all makes combined. heavier stuff, yes - 50lb class for winching cod and conger up through 50 fathoms from the wrecks - oh goody - I don't call that fishing!

Tuna from the kayak - drogue out to wear him down and keep the tip pointed over the bow! That is how I play a big, fast fish - agree with the broadside effect (but less so in a Dorado - especially with the ease of turning whereby you can keep the bow pointing at the fish.)
The Dorado swings so easily, that using a 6" big game woodchopper lure has the kayak swininging to it...even smaller yozuri mag minnows pull the bow round. Any fish on a rod whips the bow round and you can keep yourself in touch. With the drogue out you can lean into the fish too. It is when it doubles back and runs under the kayak you have a problem - drag off, paddle out PDQ, and hope the hook stays put and the line can stand it.
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amhirsc0 Offline
Cuda




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Posted: Aug. 14 2007,13:48

My guess is that it is unlikely that a facotry rod is built to your specific requirements.  You may consider building your own or have a professional build one for you.  It's really not that difficult.

My suggestion is that you start with a 9 foot blank (composite or fiberglass) that is lighter with respect to the weight line you plan on using.  Cut off the tip an 1/2 inch at a time until you get the action you want and the backbone you need.  Before cutting, the rod will be faster action and the tip will bend too easily.  Test it by putting the tip down on a rug an then bending the rod by putting pressure on it.  The more tip you cut off, the more moderate the action and the greater the backbone. Don't cut more than three inches, or you'll end up with a broomstick.  When you decide that you've achieved the tip action you want, you can cut the butt end to the length you want.  

Then build the rod, or have someone do it for you.


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KayakAl
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Cookinman Offline
Sailfish




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Posted: Aug. 24 2007,14:24

It it is bang for the Buck - star Aeials are hard to beat, cheap ant take a BEATING !

star Deluxe is a bit more $$ but nicer....Also for about  ahung and a half take a walk to the CHAOS stor in Pompano - Good Folks and they build a mean stick !
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